Game Bird Thanksgiving Dishes

I had the pleasure of creating some non-traditional recipes for the November 2020 Issue of Lake Minnetonka Magazine (pages 32 – 37), and couldn’t have enjoyed it more!

Those recipes – along with several local resources – are linked below, and I’ve included lots of tips and notes learned along the way. Please wander around! I hope you enjoy this “Field-to-Table” culinary experience as much as I did!

I’m not a hunter, so I’m thankful to have discovered some really amazing sources throughout the Twin Cities for domestic/farmed game birds. My sincerest “Thanks!” to the following people and local businesses for their time and contributions to this project!

Whole Domestic Duck and Ground Duck

Farmed at Wild Acres Processing in Pequot Lakes – the very same Wild Acres we see on restaurant menus throughout the Twin Cities. Wild Acres is a wholesale seller only, but their products can be purchased retail at the following locations.

I purchased my duck at Seward Coop on Franklyn Ave., Mpls. I went to this location specifically because Pat (the owner of Wild Acres) mentioned that they carried his ground duck. He grinds it himself and includes both skin and fat in the grind for the perfect texture. We absolutely loved it, and are now forever fans!

Wild Acres products are also currently available at: Clancey’s Meats (Mpls.), Lowry Hill Meats (Mpls.), Seward Coop’s Friendship Store (Mpls.), and Eastside Coop (Mpls.)

Cornish Hens

*I used these in place of smaller wild birds which were unavailable at the time of this writing.

Cathy Mackenthun’s Meats & Deli in St. Boni. I can’t possibly love this place more! We’ve been shopping there for years, and love their quality and selection!

Wild Pheasant

Hunted and impeccably processed by my friend, Caroline Rather, who generously gifted it to me for this project. Caroline was recently featured in Forbes Magazine , and she’s teaming up with a talented team of friends, including Chris Dorsey of Denver-based Dorsey Pictures, to create a cookbook on wild game cooking and low country living and entertaining in Brays Island, SC.

Things I Learned: Tips & Techniques for Fabulous Fowl

They’re not like cooking chicken! Their juices often run red, and meat near the bones and joints often remains pink-ish – but that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s undercooked. Seasoned wild foul cooks recommend cooking to slightly lower temps, then covering and resting the birds to allow them to finish cooking while still retaining more moisture. Duck aficionados contend that seared duck breast, served rare – “almost bloody” – is a true delicacy

The most important thing is how the birds are processed (and how quickly). Farmed birds are processed very efficiently, and then promptly chilled or frozen to maintain freshness and flavor. In the field, however, it’s sometimes difficult to process and chill wild birds as quickly. Processing definitely impacts meat quality and flavor, and when people say they don’t care for wild foul, it’s possible that they’ve previously experienced lower quality meat.

If purchasing foul from a retail market, PLAN AHEAD! Especially during the holidays (and pandemics!). Inquire a month or so in advance, schedule your purchase(s), and work with one person at the market who will help you from planning and ordering, to pick-up time. Duck and pheasant are becoming more common in retail markets, but supply and demand changes frequently.

And I can’t stress this enough: If these types of foul are unfamiliar to you, practice ahead of time so your dishes turn out just the way you want them for company!

COOKING CHALLENGES

Cooking times, methods and preparations differ considerably! There are many different resources out there, and everyone has different preferences and opinions. Really, the only way to get to know how to prepare wild birds well – and to your liking – is to practice!

Roasted duck, for example, is not necessarily difficult, but it generally needs more or less time than recommended.

My research suggested an average of 20 minutes of roasting time per pound, which wasn’t nearly enough in my case, and resulted in an incredibly tough bird that was almost impossible to carve and/or eat. (Fortunately, it was amazing the second time around in Duck Gumbo!) The roasted duck that my grandmother made, in contrast, had delicious crispy skin, but while flavorful, the meat was often on the dry side.

Every bird is different and I’m still practicing, but a general rule of thumb is that the bird is done when the legs separate easily from the rest of the bird. Duck skin may, or may not be crispy, depending on any marinades or sauces (as with the roasted duck recipe here).

My #1 piece of advice to anyone wanting to serve wonderful wild foul is not to expect perfection the first time you make it – especially if the first time you’re making it is for guests! Practice. Use recipes and recommendations for reference, but determine what you like and what works in your personal experience.

ALL IN GOOD TASTE

Pheasant and duck have “light” breast/wing meat and “dark” leg/thigh meat just like chicken, but in comparison, they have a more “mineral-y” flavor to some.

Quail and partridge are smaller and more delicate, and each carry their own milder flavor profiles.

Every palate differs in opinion about flavors, so it’s difficult to describe, but it’s well worth the experience to try them all for yourself!

Here are a few things to keep in mind with regard to the differences in farmed versus wild:

FARMED / DOMESTIC FOWL

-Softer, fattier meat (nothing wrong with that!). Some people prefer the somewhat milder flavor over wild.

WILD FOWL

– The biggest issue is that the meat can contain shot. Every precaution should be taken to remove any pellets during preparation; double-check and remove any feathers or heavily damaged areas.

– Leaner, sometimes “tougher” or “gamier” in flavor.

– Can dry out more easily due to lower fat content.

SERVING GUIDELINES

Varies largely depending on the type of foul and the appetizers and side dishes being served.

The standard recommendation for Thanksgiving Turkey is anywhere from 1 – 1½ pounds per person (which includes bone weight), and definitely toward the higher range if leftovers are desired.

Naturally, farmed birds are more predictable in size and weight, so it’s easier to plan. Wild birds can differ more significantly in size.

Pat, the owner of Wild Acres Processing, offered the following farmed and wild weight ranges. Serving sizes always depend largely on appetites and everything else being served, so the following serving sizes general suggestions:

Grouse | 1.5 – 2 pounds each | Serving size = ½ bird

Quail (Bobwhite) | ¾ pound each | Serving size = 1 bird

Duck | Wild Mallards average 2 – 2.5 pounds | Farmed Pekins average 4 pounds | Serving size = 1 breast or leg/thigh portion per person, and up to ½ bird

Pheasant | Wild Roosters average 1.5 – 2 pounds | Farmed Roosters average 2 – 2.5 pounds; Hens average 1¾ – 2¼ pounds | Serving size = 1 breast or leg/thigh portion per person, and up to ½ bird

WHAT TO SERVE WITH FOWL

The “Classics” are always a good call. Mashed potatoes, corn, greens, squash, Brussels sprouts, carrots, green beans… They’re all wonderful with fowl.

Mashed Potato, Cork & Kraut Gratin | This Potato, Corn and Kraut Gratin is a new version of old family dishes. It has three basic dishes – Mashed Potatoes, Sweet Corn, and Sauerkraut – combined into one wonderfully savory dish and all dressed up for dinner!

Warm Roasted Cabbage Salad | If you’re looking for a hearty, flavorful side dish for grilled or roasted meats, this Warm Roasted Cabbage Salad will fit the bill perfectly.

Corn Saute with Fresh Ginger, Garlic and Cilantro | This is a surprisingly delicious little dish filled with bright, fresh flavors. It’s an excellent side dish for grilled or roasted fish, chicken or pork, or as a salsa over soft shell tacos. It’s a great way to bring “summer” to the table any time of year!

Easy Sweet Potato Gratin | This Sweet Potato Gratin is fairly guilt-free and unbelievably delicious! It can be served warm or cold, winter or summer, and the no-recipe recipe can be easily adjusted to make smaller or larger batches.

To that, I’ll add that fresh herbs (such as thyme, sage and rosemary), earthy mushrooms, onions and garlic, and fruits (such as citrus, apples, pears, grapes, stone fruits, and pomegranates) all pair incredibly well with wild fowl – especially when simply sautéed or roasted.

Many recipes suggest wrapping birds in bacon or prosciutto, or drenching them in heavy sauces. That can be a mistake because you can easily lose the unique flavor of the foul that way. Similarly, side dishes that are too heavy or robust might overpower them. Go for balance, and let these beautiful birds shine!

Signature Butternut Corn Chowder with Sage and Bacon | With fresh, rich flavors and colors, this easy-to-make chowder is sure to be a favorite anytime main or side dish.

Sweet Potato Apple and Corn Coconut-Curry Chowder | This beautiful chowder is hearty, but not too heavy. It’s warm and a little spicy with perfectly balanced sweet and savory flavors. It’s absolutely wonderful on its own or as a second course with grilled or roasted chicken, turkey or pork.

Sesame Spaghetti Squash | This is perfect as a light meal or a shared dish for a pot luck, and tastes great both at room temp or right out of the refrigerator. It also makes a great accent dish for garlicy grilled or broiled chicken, turkey or pork.

Bavarian Sweet Potato Salad with Kraut | A surprisingly flavorful and bright, colorful addition to any table, this Sweet Potato Salad recipe feeds a crowd as-is, but it can easily be halved for weeknight dinners, or doubled for holiday gatherings, BBQs and potlucks.

Colcannon Gratin with Whiskey Caramelized Onions and Melted Dubliner | A velvety Colcannon dish accented with whiskey and topped with melted Dubliner cheese… Make it ahead for a crowd. It’s absolutely delicious and sure to impress!

New Potato Salad with Basil, Shallots and Lemon | This potato salad is refreshingly “different” and absolutely delicious on so many levels. It’s delightfully, unexpectedly sweet/savory. It’s perfect for holidays and parties, and works really well with fish and fowl.

GAME BIRD RECIPES

Ginger Sesame Duck Meatballs with Baby Bok Choy

A family-style appetizer inspired by the fact that many Asian dishes use duck, and the Salad Girl (a fabulous local brand) Ginger Sesame dressing used to dress the bok choy greens. I added fresh ginger to the meatballs pair with the dressing, and chopped golden raisins to add a hint of sweetness. We absolutely LOVE this dish! This recipe can easily be doubled or tripled, and would make a great dinner served with rice.

Duck Meatballs with Cherry, Apple, Red Wine Sauce and Toasted Pearl Couscous

This came about mainly because I wanted to feature sweet & savory fruit flavors which pair really well with duck, and I wanted “something different” for an elegant appetizer. It turned out beautifully, and (like the previous meatball dish) can all be made in advance, so it’s great for easy entertaining!

Maple Hot Honey Roasted Duck with Roasted Vegetables

In the interest of including something “trendy”, and knowing that hot honey is really popular right now, I combined that with butter (which never goes out of style) along with maple syrup to bring in a favorite fall flavor. The sauce is amazing! It’s not at all too sweet, and creates an absolutely gorgeous golden-brown glaze!

Grilled, Cherry Smoked Cornish Hen with Smoked Gouda Sauce and Vegetables

I planned to do an herbed, grilled bird dish, but a menu item at one of our favorite restaurants – Bait & Hook Seafood Bar in Cokato – was so good, I had to re-create it for this project! While grilling and smoking methods vary widely depending on the type of grill used, and certainly depend on the type of bird being cooked, this recipe can be adapted in a variety of ways. Any vegetables can be used, but the creamer potatoes are really wonderful with the Gouda sauce, so I’d definitely include those!

Pheasant Wellington with Duxelles and Fromage, Served with Roasted Heirloom Carrots

I’ve made this several times for my family over the years, but I can now say that it has been perfected! The recipe idea came from a friend who made Venison Wellington for a dinner party several years ago. I adapted the recipe idea to suit more delicate pheasant, and am thrilled with the way it turned out! I can’t wait to serve it again!